‘Every Culinary Artist Should Learn Here’: Humble Turkish Restaurant Earns Fourth on Ranking of London’s Top Dining Destinations.

When curating a list of London’s top dining spots, one might expect familiar award-winning venues. But, nestled near the top among these food titans is a simple salonu located in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

The little Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the family utterly surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” says a proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble restaurant earning such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its former character. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the cuisine, and this eatery certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary honour.